If you’ve just arrived in Tbilisi and wonder how to spend one unforgettable day — head north, into the mountains. This journey doesn’t require special planning, just a sense of curiosity. In just a few hours, you’ll find yourself far from the city, surrounded by silence, nature, and people who still wave to strangers passing by.
The day starts early. Tbilisi is still quiet, the streets gently waking up. You leave the city, and after about an hour, the road opens up to Zhinvali Reservoir. The water is calm and deep blue, reflecting the hills around it. It feels like you’ve already traveled far — though the city is still just behind you.
Soon after comes Ananuri Fortress, perched above the river. The walls and towers are centuries old. Climb up, step inside the chapel, touch the stone. It’s not about ticking off sights — it’s about feeling how old this land is.
A little further lies Pasanauri — a small village known across Georgia. This is where khinkali come from. Not just any — but mountain khinkali, mtiuluri. No need to choose a filling. There’s only one kind here — juicy, peppered, meaty, perfect. Served in simple cafés, eaten with your hands, and always, always hot. This stop alone could make the whole trip worth it.
Soon after, you’ll stop at the place where the Black and White Aragvi rivers meet. One is clear and light, the other darker, heavier. They flow side by side for a while — two rivers, two stories, becoming one.
The road then begins to rise, curling higher through the Caucasus. Here, every turn gives you a new view. Sheep graze on open hillsides. Horses move freely through the grass, and every now and then, you pass a shepherd walking slowly along the roadside, wrapped in a long coat, nodding in greeting. There are small roadside stands where locals sell nuts, fruit, or sometimes just smile and offer directions. The further you go, the more it feels like time moves differently here — slower, softer.
In Gudauri, pause. Not for long. Maybe a warm khachapuri, some local yogurt, a tea on the terrace. The air is cooler, the sky wider. Here, you breathe slower, and it feels good.
The final stop is Stepantsminda, a quiet mountain town with one towering guest: Mount Kazbek. Sometimes the peak is hidden, wrapped in clouds. Sometimes it stands tall, white and sharp against the sky. Either way, it takes your breath. Make the short trip up to Gergeti Trinity Church — it’s worth it. From there, the valley opens, and for a moment, everything is still.
In the evening, as you return to the city, it’s nice to come back to a peaceful room at Apart In. There’s everything you need: a soft bed, a kitchen, and a window with a view of Tbilisi’s lights. Pour yourself a glass of Georgian wine. Sit down. Think back on the road — the rivers, the fortress, the horses, the shepherds, the mountain. That one day — you’ll remember it.
