თვე: ივნისი 2025

Tbilisi isn’t a city you just visit — it’s a city you enter. Through arches, courtyards, and staircases. And nowhere is this more true than in its front doors — the old, wooden, often forgotten entrances that once marked the beginning of a home, a life, a story.

These doors are more than decoration. They’re a part of the city’s character — especially in neighborhoods like Sololaki and Mtatsminda. Some are carved, some cracked, some still hold the original knockers. Many hide courtyards with grapevines and laundry lines, cats on windowsills and neighbors who still nod to each other every morning.

Here are six of the most remarkable front doors in Tbilisi, each with a story.

1. The Kaleidoscope Door – 3 Betlemi Street

Step inside and you’re surrounded by color. This entrance, known as the Kaleidoscope, is filled with small stained-glass pieces that scatter the sunlight across walls and tiles. Locals say the building once belonged to a family of artists. Today, a small craft shop shares the space — and the beauty remains.

2. The Shalimov House – 13 Lado Asatiani Street

Famous for its angel murals above the stairwell, this entrance feels like it stepped out of another era. The house was built in 1897 and belonged to a merchant whose daughter painted the angels as a child. They’ve faded, but you can still see their outlines watching over the hallway.

3. The Vartanov Residence – 18 Dadiani Street

Built at the end of the 19th century, this entrance is an elegant mix of floral stucco and symmetry. Inside, a wall painting shows the four seasons as female figures — an echo of the merchant’s admiration for European art. Locals still pause in the stairwell to look up.

4. The House of Writers – 13 Ivane Machabeli Street

This home once belonged to David Sarajishvili, founder of Georgia’s famous brandy. Later, it became a meeting place for artists, writers, and musicians. The door opens to a grand marble staircase — and if you close your eyes, you can almost hear a piano playing from a distant room.

5. The Bozardzhyants House – 12 Daniel Chonkadze Street

Bold architecture and detailed ironwork mark this door. It was built for a wealthy Armenian family in the early 1900s. The house changed hands many times, but the entrance — strong, slightly wild — still hints at its grand beginnings.

6. The Blue Door – 15 Galaktion Tabidze Street

Repainted but still authentic, this soft blue door leads to a courtyard where time seems to pause. A dog usually sleeps near the steps, and a few plants spill from old pots. A neighbor might greet you — and then vanish into one of the wooden staircases beyond.

7. The Clockmaker’s Entrance – 2 Gudiashvili Street

This lesser-known spot belonged to a clockmaker in the early 20th century. His tools are long gone, but a faded clock face remains above the entrance. Inside, you might notice hand-painted numbers hidden in the wall tiles — his quiet legacy.

These doors don’t shout. But if you look, really look — they tell you stories. Of families, of history, of a city that keeps its memories close to the surface.

Bring a camera, but more than that — bring time. Tbilisi rewards those who wander slowly.

If you’ve just arrived in Tbilisi and wonder how to spend one unforgettable day — head north, into the mountains. This journey doesn’t require special planning, just a sense of curiosity. In just a few hours, you’ll find yourself far from the city, surrounded by silence, nature, and people who still wave to strangers passing by.

The day starts early. Tbilisi is still quiet, the streets gently waking up. You leave the city, and after about an hour, the road opens up to Zhinvali Reservoir. The water is calm and deep blue, reflecting the hills around it. It feels like you’ve already traveled far — though the city is still just behind you.

Soon after comes Ananuri Fortress, perched above the river. The walls and towers are centuries old. Climb up, step inside the chapel, touch the stone. It’s not about ticking off sights — it’s about feeling how old this land is.

A little further lies Pasanauri — a small village known across Georgia. This is where khinkali come from. Not just any — but mountain khinkali, mtiuluri. No need to choose a filling. There’s only one kind here — juicy, peppered, meaty, perfect. Served in simple cafés, eaten with your hands, and always, always hot. This stop alone could make the whole trip worth it.

Soon after, you’ll stop at the place where the Black and White Aragvi rivers meet. One is clear and light, the other darker, heavier. They flow side by side for a while — two rivers, two stories, becoming one.

The road then begins to rise, curling higher through the Caucasus. Here, every turn gives you a new view. Sheep graze on open hillsides. Horses move freely through the grass, and every now and then, you pass a shepherd walking slowly along the roadside, wrapped in a long coat, nodding in greeting. There are small roadside stands where locals sell nuts, fruit, or sometimes just smile and offer directions. The further you go, the more it feels like time moves differently here — slower, softer.

In Gudauri, pause. Not for long. Maybe a warm khachapuri, some local yogurt, a tea on the terrace. The air is cooler, the sky wider. Here, you breathe slower, and it feels good.

The final stop is Stepantsminda, a quiet mountain town with one towering guest: Mount Kazbek. Sometimes the peak is hidden, wrapped in clouds. Sometimes it stands tall, white and sharp against the sky. Either way, it takes your breath. Make the short trip up to Gergeti Trinity Church — it’s worth it. From there, the valley opens, and for a moment, everything is still.

In the evening, as you return to the city, it’s nice to come back to a peaceful room at Apart In. There’s everything you need: a soft bed, a kitchen, and a window with a view of Tbilisi’s lights. Pour yourself a glass of Georgian wine. Sit down. Think back on the road — the rivers, the fortress, the horses, the shepherds, the mountain. That one day — you’ll remember it.